Cruising with Stevedore

 We travelled this route for the scenery on the Pasquotank, and the history of the Dismal Swamp, but we spent the night because of Robert Peek. Robert is in charge of the waters in the Dismal Canal, the Deep Creek Lock Master, and perhaps the kindest lock operator in the country. He is an ambassador for Virginia waterways without rival, and just an all around nice guy. We told him we would tie, up at Deep Creek Park for the night and he was waiting to catch our lines on the dock.  He shuttled Stephen and our car to Portsmouth, and before saying,”goodnight,” told us what time the paper arrives and the coffee is ready! In the morning he sped up our locking so we could make the Gilmerton Bridge opening at 09:30. He even called ahead to the bridge operator to advise him of our arrival.

Remember we holed up for an extra day in River Dunes to attend Palm Sunday Mass? Well Saturday was a gorgeous day on the water. Sunday and Monday saw winds climbing to 25 knots out of the North and Northwest. Wave heights on Pamlico Sound were enough to send boats heading for shelter including into River Dunes. When waves are high it is extremely difficult to see crab pots, not to mention how uncomfortable the ride is, so we waited. Tuesday was the first day the seas were going to lay down a bit, so we were on the water at 06:00. It was just light enough to see crab pots.

We travelled 78 nautical miles from River Dunes to Alligator River Marina. Stephen said, after a 12-hour day he wasn’t messing with the dingy. I was too tired to cook so we ate in their little kitchen and had some of the best green beans and southern slaw, “you ever wrapped a lip around!”

We went to bed early and left before 07:00 for Elizabeth City. We headed onto Albemarle Sound with waves two feet and sometimes three before getting tucked safely between the shores of the Pasquatank River. The weather forecast is calling for increased winds out of the North for the next few days so it was this morning or wait another four days to head across the sound and into the Dismal Swamp. Before the afternoon turned into night there were high winds and rains pummeling Elizabeth City.

Tomorrow we’re going to spend the night on the swamp before heading into Portsmouth for the summer. We’ve already begun packing and cleaning in preparation of leaving Stevedore, “On The Hard” for six months.  Very sad.

TAKE TWO-Something happened to yesterday’s post…

We spent an extra day in Southport. I love that little village on Cape Fear. Southport has the right mix of artisans, fisherman, nearby beaches and beautiful bold freighters coming to and from the sea. Everywhere we went people were exceptionally friendly. Stephens say, “You’ll hate it in July, August and September…”

We left Southport for a short trip to beautiful Wrightsville Beach. It truly is all about the beach, one of the nicest anywhere. We dropped the dinghy headed to shore and I walked for miles watching the ocean kick up some waves. We swirled around a bit on our anchor but went to bed confident we would be where we left it in the morning.

Having dropped our mast the day before, we could clear Wrightsville Beach and Figure Eight Island bridge without an opening. We were through both bridges by 08:10. Then we paced ourselves for Surf City bridge. Wouldn’t you know the current was in our favor so we had to twirl around in the river for 30 minutes until it opened, which is only on the hour. Frankly there was not enough traffic to justify one opening per hour.

Then came Onslow Beach Bridge. We couldn’t make the 13:30 opening so we pulled back the throttle and crawled slowly up to the bridge. Two Navy war ships were in the bay, the ocean was beautiful so enjoy the view. I called the bridge tender requesting transit on the 14:00 opening; “Roger That Captain,” then settled back to wait. We were meeting friends for dinner in Swansboro so Stephen decided to take a shower while we waited. I could hear firing and see smoke on the west-side of the waterway and was beginning to wonder if someone had forgotten to push the button on the “Do Not Enter when Firing” sign. The bridge tender called to say that there is an, “Emergency Vehicle Hold on the Bridge, It will be at least another hour for an opening.” Gun fire, emergency vehicles…

During this time I called my brother Dan explained the situation and reminded him that if he didn’t hear from us, they could identify us by the names on the life-rings! Just as I hung up with Dan, Stephen came flying up to the pilot house in his birthday suit to asked me if I could smell smoke. Yup.

AT 14:25 the bridge tender called and said, “Captain, bring your vessel on up for an opening.”

We finally made it into Swansboro at 16:10. Vicki and Fred arrived at 16:30 and we enjoyed catching up while dining at Ducks overlooking the waterway and Stevedore in the distance. Never a dull moment on the waterway.

Yesterday, we departed Swansboro at 07:10 and promptly ran aground after misreading a marker heading to sea. We kedged off and headed up through Beaufort and Moorehead City. When we hit the Neuse river, our Sophie meter went off. One pill for Sophie and a nap for Stephen and we crossed with no incidents. The Neuse held steady with two foot waves on the nose sometime hitting three feet. It’d been awhile since we were pushed around some by the waterway.

We pulled into River Dunes for two nights so that we can attend Palm Sunday Services. The marina is offering one dollar per foot rates and a courtesy car, not bad.

Dutchman Creek Southport, NC 

 Winds and current were opposing each other this morning so we used it as an excuse to stay an extra day in beautiful Southport, North Carolina. The pictures say it all, this is one wonderful place where the Cape Fear River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Bald Head and Oak Islands are the closest neighbors to this seafaring town where fresh fish arrive daily. It’s the right mix of artisan, fishermen, and island community.  

A Church Becomes Home in Southport

We stopped in Georgetown yesterday in early afternoon. Unfortunately, it poured and the Kudzu Bakery closes at 14:00 so I got wet but no “twice baked” cookies.

We had our friend Glen over for conversation, and to share meatloaf, home-canned sweet corn, and homemade key lime pie-from the crust up! Food is good aboard Stevedore.

Glen’s going to paint our green stripe in the early fall and maybe finish my horrible painting job. So we’ll most likely bring the boat back to Osprey Marine near Myrtle Beach in September.  Sounds like a guy’s trip in the making…

Today is the Waccamaw River and an overnight somewhere in Myrtle Beach. Heavy weather may be coming our way so we’ll not sure where we’ll be these next few days.

A is for the Azalea’s blooming everywhere. We stopped in Beaufort, SC last night and the parkway along the river could not have been more beautiful. Everything is blooming  and lovers young and old were swinging on the swings along the waterfront.

B is for bikinis displayed proudly on the front of small fishing boats in the marshes and the middle of Charleston Bay!

C is for the crab pots that captains nearly hit when their attention is on bikinis and not on the waterway.

Tonight we’re tied to the docks at Isle of Palms, Georgia. There’s a band dock-side so we might as well have more fun!

After six nights “on the hook” we’re tied to a dock at Hinkley’s boat yard near Savannah. I was excited about staying here as I’ve always wanted to visit Bonaventure Cemetery. Unfortunately it’s a little over a one-mile walk and by the time I got there it was closed. For those following behind us, their hours are 08:00-17:00. We arrived at 16:00 and by the time we registered and walked Sophie it was too late for the cemetery.

We had another great day on the waterway with plenty of water in Hellsgate, and so little water under the 22′ Skidaway Narrows Bridge we didn’t need an opening. With the New Moon, the water levels are low and the bridge had 31′ clearance today. I just love the tidal activity in Georgia’s Low Country!

Duplin River Anchorage

Up at the crack of dawn so we could ride on a high-tide through Jekyll Island Creek, one of three shallow water rivers on the Georgia ICW. We cruised around Jekyll at 10:30 with six inches to spare below the keel at marker 19. Tow Boat US’s favorite spot!

We’re in the Low Country and the day could not have been more perfect. We started out with lots of water, watched the seven-foot tide go out, and took in the newly refreshed shoreline. In Little Mud River, skinny spot number two, we saw two alligators!

Sapelo Is. Redwing Blackbird

We dropped our anchor in Duplin River just off DoBoy Sound, next to Sapelo Island,dinghied to shore to explore Sapelo Island and relieve Sophie. A small Gullah community, and a marine research center operated by the University of Georgia, are the only signs of civilization. We saw plenty of wildlife including alligators. To learn more see http://www.sapelonerr.org/

Pelicans are diving just off the back deck while I’m writing. Wish you were here!

Sapelo Is. Alligator

Anchored on Cumberland Is.

We grabbed a mooring ball in St. Augustine after a pristine cruising day. Favorable currents, soft winds and sunshine made for perfect condiditons. I attended Mass at St Augustine Cathedral Basilica, the oldest parish in the Unitied States. A priest on fire for the faith, and the 100 year old pipe organ made the long dinghy ride to shore worth getting there.

John from Dar Sea and Stephen take Sophie to Shore

We left St Augustine at 07:00, early dawn and were glad to be following fellow Gold Loopers aboard Dar Sea. We had favorable current until we crossed the St. John’s river and entered Sisters Creek. We made such good time we went passed Fernandina Beach and headed to Cumberland Island, one of my favortie places on the Eastern Shore. Enjoy pictures here and in the photo album.

Manatee Mania

Yesterday around 12:00 we pulled into the free dock at Cocoa, Fl. We took Sophie to shore and admitted that she is the “Alpha Dog.” Obviously, it’s not Stephen. We returned to the waterway and cruised to a mooring ball in Titusville. Then we dropped the dinghy, went to shore nearly a half-mile away, and walked Sophie again.

Today is Stephen’s birthday so, while he took Sophie to shore this morning, I made him french toast with real maple syrup and strawberries – yum. We had our dinghy up and were off the mooring ball at 08:00.

We had a beautiful cruise on flat water. We were in an area called, Mosquito Lagoon. It’s very shallow making it a magnet for wildlife and fishermen. Today as we crossed through Haulover Canal in the middle of the Lagoon, we sighted a manatee. As we turned out into the waterway heading north we saw three or four manatees feeding together and then a short distance later a mama manatee with her “little one” on her back. All along the way we saw manatees, dolphins and pelicans diving for breakfast. A wonderful birthday for Stephen.

Tonight we’re on anchor a short distance from a park in Daytona Beach. We went for a walk, ate spaghetti with homemade sauce and fresh arugula salad for dinner on the back deck, and are wathcing the sun set as I write.  Happy Birthday Stephen.